Nice in Winter: It's Awfully Nice

plus a Loire & Bordeaux update

You may remember a newsletter late last year encouraging you to "carpe vidulo" (seize the suitcase) because the dollar had gained strength against the euro. Well, I took my own advice and impulsively booked a short winter trip to Europe. My requirements were few: a destination that was new to me and one where I would not freeze to death. Nice fit the bill perfectly. 

So how was it? In a word, delightful.

As it turns out, we picked the perfect week to be gone, completely missing out on Texas Icemageddon 2023. From beginning to end, we could not have had a more incredible week. I will definitely add Nice to the list for a future Small Group Trip, and if you happen to be sailing the Rhône, it's a convenient addition to your trip.

We descended toward Nice Côte d'Azur airport on a bright blue Monday afternoon and it was one of the most stunning approaches I have ever seen. One minute you are marveling at the view over the snow-laden Alps and the next you are exclaiming over the sparkling Mediterranean coastline below, with the Alps still in plain view.

A French Capital of Culture

Nice is in the midst of its campaign to be the European Capital of Culture for 2028, and the evidence was everywhere. From music to art to history to la dolce vita, Nice has it all.

Thanks to the attractively priced Nice municipal museums pass, we enjoyed a full array of options. The Beaux Arts museum holds a well-chosen and regionally-oriented collection of (mainly) paintings by artists who were from Nice or lived and worked on the Côte d'Azur. The Palais Lascaris is a fine example of Baroque architecture and design, and also boasts an outstanding and fascinating musical instruments collection. The Musée Massena will inform you on the history of Nice in a gorgeous mansion with its own small park. Its collection of Nice Carnival memorabilia truly struck a chord with me, having spent much of my life in New Orleans. I've admired very similar antique Mardi Gras mementos at the Presbytere on Jackson Square.

In the elegant Cimiez area, uphill from the main part of the city, we visited the lovely Musée Matisse. Right next door is an archaeology museum. Why there? Because you will find a huge excavation of Roman ruins in the same spot on that hill.

There were several other museums on the pass but we ran out of time to visit them all. We just had too many other sights on our list.

Out and about in Nice...

The weather was absolutely perfect the entire week--with high temperatures in the upper 50s, under brilliant sunshine. With that kind of meteorological luck, we spent a lot of time outdoors.

The best walk in Nice is, naturally, along the beach on the Promenade des Anglais. We returned there many times during our stay because it was just such a satisfying stroll. There are benches and chairs along the way, the occasional busker, and stairs down to the beach. On Saturday afternoon it was definitely the place to see and be seen. Be sure to stop for a drink at the unbelievable Hotel Negresco!

We also walked around the narrow, crooked streets Old Town and marveled at the beautiful cathedral. After lunch, we made our way up to the top of the Parc de la Colline du Chateau, where we enjoyed incredible 360 views of Nice, its harbor, and the sea. Locals were utilizing the space for tai chi, frisbee games, and even tightrope practice. By the way, the superyacht in the harbor can be yours for a cool €125 million.

 ...and Beyond

Thanks to robust local bus and train service, it's easy to take day trips to other towns along the coast as well as destination a bit further inland.

We went to Villfranche sur Mer one afternoon, where the highlights were a historic and atmospheric covered (and dark) street, the Rue Obscure, and a small fishermen's chapel that was decorated by Cocteau.

We also ventured across the border into Italy to Ventimiglia. On Fridays, there is a gigantic market with purveyors of everything locals might need for their homes, from pots and pans to clothes to food. The most tempting thing was the vintage (real) furs for €50, but we restrained ourselves. In the old town, you will find a Romanesque cathedral, and you can even go down into the crypt and baptistery where Catholics have worshipped for over a thousand years.

As you can see, Nice makes a fantastic destination all on its own and is a perfect base for exploring the area. I'd love to help you enjoy it as much as we did, any time of year!

October 2023 Luxe Loire and Brilliant Bordeaux Update:

There are still about ten French balcony cabins and one suite left on the upper deck of the S.S. Bon Voyage, but beyond that it will only be windows. The balcony cabins always sell out first.

I have seven rooms blocked for the Loire Valley and three have already sold in the two days since I returned from Nice. That leaves four, and I cannot add rooms beyond the seven I have. As they say in France, si t'endors, tu es mort!

Likewise, the VIP Grand Cru post-cruise Experience in Bordeaux will be very exclusive, with only five rooms.

You may mix and match any components of this trip: the Luxe Loire pre-cruise package (10/18-22); the Brilliant Bordeaux river cruise (10/22-29); and the VIP Grand Cru Experience after the cruise (10/29-11/1). 

Also booking: click on any trip name for more info. 

Irish Country Idyll (May 2023): One room is still available for a scenic wander through Dublin, Galway, and the rugged Irish coast. I will be releasing that room in less than 48 hours.

Celebration of Classical Music on the Danube (November 2023): Scenic river cruise highlighted by special itinerary additions for the music lover, with optional extension packages for Vienna and a Hungarian wine tour. 

Vietnam and Cambodia (January 2024): This trip has at its center an unforgettable Mekong River cruise. Note that category C cabins are now sold out. Stay tuned for more details in the coming months, but reach out if you would like to secure your place while three other categories still available.

Private (FIT) planning for 2023

If you’re thinking of making an independent/private trip in the future and would like me to design and book that trip for you, now is the time to reserve your place in my planning calendar for Q3 and Q4 of 2023 (and into 2024). Keep in mind that "Skip the Line" requests (for travel less than 120 days out) are accepted on a space/time available basis only. I'd love to help you with that dream trip but my board is filling up fast!

Exclusive event for DFW clients in March

Watch your inbox for an invitation to my Second Annual Wine Tasting Event at Stoney's Wine Lounge in Lakewood, to be held March 9th and 14th. In addition to providing info and answering questions for 2023 travel, I will reveal the survey results and offer a sneak peek at our Small Group Trip destinations for 2024.

Á la prochaine!