Wild and untamed autumn arrives with little warning in the South of France. Fog often shrouds the mornings, slowly burning off as the sun reaches its zenith. Farmers use the cooler weather to light bonfires for their organic waste. The grapevines have turned and mostly dropped their leaves along with the Plane trees (Platanes), often bare and mottled by the end of October.
As a summer baby who loves hot weather, the fall is bittersweet for me as the warmer days are many months away. However, the culinary advantages of cool, damp days are the variety of foraged mushrooms, the array of squashes, hearty Provencal stews like daubes (try Virginie’s recipe), and pot au feu (pot roasts) that replace light summer fare. Allow October to be an excuse to drink excellent red wine blends from the Rhône Valley and other appellations in Provence—the article below highlights six wine villages worth visiting.
Late October also means the Vacances de la Toussaint (October 21-November 6, 2023), the first school break since classes started in September, and there is much to do. During the holidays, if you are near St. Tropez, Tasha recommends the short ferry ride from St. Maxime as an enjoyable way of arriving at the famous seaside city. The current Musée Regards de Provence exhibition in Marseille celebrates 25 Years with La Collection. And, if the weather is fine, guest writer Amy Kleppinger suggests a sailing trip in the Calanques.
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