The Beauty of Budapest

If you’d asked me in March of 2020 (remember that month?) how many times I would be in Budapest over the next three years, I never imagined that the answer would be four!

What majestic and splendid place it is! Although the Romans were there first, Budapest was later one of the centers of power in the Austro-Hungarian empire as well, and its imperial heyday is still visible in its monumental architecture. The cities of Buda and Pest (along with Óbuda) became one in 1873, and the effect of pairing the beauty of each side of the mighty Danube only served to multiply the magnificence. The opera house is a symbol of Budapest's importance in the Habsburg era--it may be smaller than Vienna's, but it's even more opulent and impressive to most eyes.

After having been there four times in the last few years, these would be some of my highlights:

THE HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT BUILDING

This is a whole other visual treat. It’s the classic image of Budapest (above) and the largest building in Hungary—a majestic neo-Gothic edifice that dominates the Danube. Everyone sees the outside, but what about the inside? It’s just as stunning. The woodwork, the stained glass windows, the parliamentary chambers, the historic relics—to fully appreciate this splendid structure, you should view it during the day, the evening, and from the inside as well.

BUDA CASTLE HILL

The Buda side of the Danube is the hilly side, and it is dominated by Buda Castle. It’s a beautiful tree-lined walk up to the top (mildly challenging for one small segment of the path), and the reward will be worth the effort. The towers and arcades of the Fisherman’s Bastion offer some breathtaking panoramic views over to the Parliament, the basilica, and other iconic elements of the Pest side. Once you have reached the top, don’t miss the striking painted interior of the Matthias church.

JEWISH HISTORY

Budapest was an important locale to Jewish culture in Europe, having been among the more accommodating cities to the Jewish people, with thriving businesses and religious life. The Dohány Street Synagogue is one of the most beautiful in Europe, and it bears some unusual features, such as an organ (something more typically found in Christian churches). It is also home to a small but informative display on the terrible suffering of Hungarian Jews under the Nazi occupation, along with a moving memorial in its courtyard. There are other related sites nearby.

UNIQUE GEOLOGY AND THERMAL BATH CULTURE

Under its surface, Hungary is bubbling with thermal features, hot springs, cave systems, and more. Above ground, you will find a rich culture of curative baths as a wellness ritual treasured by Hungarians across the country. In Budapest itself, there are several beautiful bath houses where you can experience this ritual yourself, from Szécheny on the Pest side to Gellért on the Buda side. Beyond the city and into the countryside (Hungary is small, so you’re never more than a few hours from the capital), you will find other places where you can become one with geology. On my last trip to western Hungary, we navigated our small boats through an underground cave system with thermal springs by lightly touching the walls to propel us forward.

ART NOUVEAU ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN

If you are a fan of the art, architecture, and design of the late 19th and early 20th century, Budapest should be at the top of your list (along with Brussels, Prague, and Nancy). In Budapest, the style bridging art nouveau to the age of art deco is known as the Hungarian Secession movement. The eye candy is top notch: the jawdropping decorative elements of the Lizst Music Academy; the stunning palace hotels that dot the core of the city; the random details you notice while strolling the city's elegant avenues.

EQUESTRIAN PROWESS

One of the most memorable experiences I had on my second trip to Budapest was the conference opening night event at the Lazar Family Equestrian Park, just outside of Budapest. The skill of these horsemen is impressive, and the family is keeping a special aspect of traditional Hungarian culture alive. It’s hard to forget the sight of one guy straddling the backs of a two horses (while controlling the whole team of four or five horses), flying by you almost too fast to snap a photo. Or how about some archery on horseback? If you time the visit right, you can finish off the experience with a massive buffet of traditional Hungarian dishes, accompanied by live music.

GASTRONOMY

Although I had quite a lot of delicious food in Hungary—from home-cooked duck served by a winemaker’s wife to an au courant seven-course tasting dinner—one of my favorite foods was essentially a street sweet. The Hungarian name for them is Kürtöskalács but they are known as chimney cakes in English, and the delectable aroma will lure you in at some point. Think of cinnamon roll dough formed into a cone, cooked until golden brown, and rolled in sugar (or cinnamon sugar). The extras ramp up the decadence. Would you like some coconut or cocoa powder on that? Can I smear some pistachio cream or Nutella inside for you?

The high-class version of a dessert break is also constantly beckoning—step off the street and into one of Budapest’s architectural jewels that houses a café. A coffee and slice of dobos torte will do wonders to take your mind off your tired feet and fuel further exploration .

And as you may have guessed from past newsletters, I'm a fan of Hungarian wine. From the elegant, mineral-forward wines of Somló in the west to the legendary Tokaj in the east, Hungary has one of the most varied wine production ranges in Europe. The majority of its wines are made from native grapes and consumed locally. Aside from Tokaj and the occasional dry furmint, you’re unlikely to see these wines at your favorite liquor store or restaurant at home. That’s why I had to buy a suitcase in Somló in 2023…

Reach out if you’d like to have these experiences on a private trip to Budapest on its own or perhaps with Vienna and Prague—or as an extension of a river cruise engining or ending in Budapest. Or just join me next summer!

I'm now taking private travel planning requests for 2025 and 2026, so be sure to get on my book as soon as possible. Or join us for a Small Group Trip:

Bravo, Berlin! Bravo to you--this March 2025 Mon Voyage City Break is basically sold out! Ask me about the waiting list, but first check out the details here.

With Irish Country Idyll, the Sequel, May 14-28, 2025, Mon Voyage will return to Ireland, this time in the company of Texas artist Dalynn Montgomery. Our privately-rented County Kerry manor house is stunning. For more info on this wonderful destination and this lovely springtime trip, click here. There's one room left.

Gems of Southeast Europe: This luxurious late June 2025 river cruise aboard the AmaMagna (the ship I call the Queen of the Danube) will be a change of pace. We'll visit countries that spent many decades behind the Iron Curtain. This cruise will surely be both enlightening and educational, in addition to being relaxing and indulgent. Read more here.

One week in Hungarian wine country and Budapest: If you'd like to add a fabulous Hungarian wine tour (and Budapest) after the late June cruise, reservations for this specially curated land extension may close as early as next week. We're staying at a castle. On a vineyard. Seriously. See the brochure here.

You are also welcome to participate in this tour even without the cruise. (I will still be taking cruise bookings, however!)

Wonders of Colombia: Looking for a new destination? How about Colombia's Magdalena River? Join us for this colorful new itinerary aboard the brand new AmaMelodia in late January 2026. Note that there are only about 30 cabins on this ship and two-thirds are already sold out. Take a look at this cruise here.